A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of crossing paths with Bea and Damien Bertaux, a French couple on an extraordinary five-month bikepacking journey from Cancun, Mexico, to Calgary, Canada. We first met on a windy descent in Colorado, and their story of slow travel, resilience, and connection deeply resonated with me.
Recently, they checked in with an update on their journey since we parted ways in Boulder. In true Bea and Damien fashion, they wrote to us in their native French—explaining that it felt more authentic to share the continuation of their adventure in their own words. Thanks to a little translation magic, we’re thrilled to share their latest dispatch from the road.
As expected, their ride north hasn’t been a simple cruise. It’s been a mix of harsh weather, stunning landscapes, and the incredible kindness of strangers that keeps their wheels turning.
Wyoming: Wind, Cold, and Unwavering Generosity
After leaving Colorado, Bea and Damien pedaled into Wyoming, where they were immediately greeted by the state’s infamous wind and cold. “During the days riding into the wind, we loved the vast and magnificent landscapes,” they shared, proving once again that their positive spirits are as durable as their touring bikes.
Along the TransAmerica route, they crossed paths with a few rare cyclists and discovered a hidden gem in Jeffrey City—an old church beautifully converted into a welcoming spot for cycle tourers, courtesy of the Warmshowers network.
But what continues to move them most isn’t the scenery; it’s the people. “Throughout our kilometers, the kindness and generosity of people continue to touch us just as much,” they wrote. Whether it was locals offering them a shower outside a supermarket, or folks pulling over in the rain to check on them, the American West has shown them its best side. In one particularly memorable moment, a couple offered them sandwiches while they were sheltering from a heavy downpour in the restrooms at Split Rock.
Snowstorms and Spontaneous Friends in Rawlins
The weather eventually forced their hand in Rawlins, Wyoming, where a snowstorm grounded them for several days. To make matters worse, their hotel lost power. “It was impossible to go out, let alone cycle,” they recalled.
Needing a lift to their next stop, they flagged down a pickup truck. The driver, a kind man named Jake, didn’t just give them a ride—he spontaneously invited them into his home for a meal and a place to sleep. “We had a wonderful time together, and all of it completely spontaneous!” they said. It’s these serendipitous encounters that make the grueling miles worthwhile.
Bison Encounters in the National Parks
With the weather clearing, they spent ten glorious days exploring Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Traveling the full loop by bike in the shoulder season proved to be a fantastic decision. The roads were accessible, the crowds were thin, and the hiker-biker campsites offered spacious, affordable spots without the need for reservations.
“The route was magnificent! We loved riding along that beautiful road in the heart of nature,” they wrote. Their slow pace allowed for some incredibly close encounters with the local wildlife. “Sometimes there were even several bison a little too close to our path… it was a wonderful moment!”
Their fully loaded bikes continue to be a magnet for curiosity, turning every rest stop into a chance to chat with passersby and share their story.
Pushing On to Montana and Beyond
Bea and Damien are currently making their way through Montana. Yes, they are still battling a headwind, but they are taking it all in stride as they inch closer to the Canadian border, with Glacier National Park next on their itinerary.
“As we pedal on, the reactions of people make us realize that our starting point is beginning to feel very far away,” they reflected. “So we try to make the most of every moment, every encounter, every opportunity, every landscape.”
Their journey is a beautiful reminder that sometimes the best way to see the world is at ten miles per hour, embracing whatever the road throws your way.
We will continue to follow Bea and Damien as they cross into Canada and push toward their finish line in Calgary. Stay safe out there, you two—and keep the rubber side down!
Stay tuned to AvidCyclist.com for more updates on Bea and Damien’s incredible adventure.
