By Gary Robinson, AvidCyclist.com

When I first spotted Béa and Damien Bertaux descending Wolfensberger Road in Castle Rock, Colorado, their heavily loaded touring bikes and the small “France” license plate dangling from the rear rack told me they were on a serious adventure. They were riding from Cancún, Mexico, to Calgary, Canada—a five-month journey delayed by a pandemic, postponed by a broken bone, and ultimately ridden in reverse.

In our last update, the French couple had weathered the freezing headwinds of Wyoming, dodged bison in Yellowstone, and found warmth in the unexpected generosity of strangers. Now, safely back in France, they’ve sent us their final dispatch. It is a story of magnificent landscapes, terrifying traffic, Canadian mosquitoes, and the realization that an 8,000-kilometer (nearly 5,000-mile) journey might just be a warm-up.

The Beauty and the Beasts of Montana

Leaving Wyoming behind, Béa and Damien pedaled into the deep forests and broad valleys of Montana. The scenery shifted dramatically, offering a fresh backdrop after the high-desert plains. At first, the weather was glorious, though the state soon delivered its share of cold, windy days.

Wildlife remained a daily highlight. “Every day we enjoyed seeing wild animals,” they wrote, before adding a very relatable caveat: “and we were relieved not to have encountered any bears!”

The crown jewel of their Montana experience was Glacier National Park. Thanks to a section of road closed to motor vehicles but open to cyclists, they enjoyed a rare, traffic-free ride through some of North America’s most stunning alpine terrain. “It was fantastic!” they recalled.

But the state also delivered the most harrowing miles of their entire trip. While they found wonderful hospitality—including friendly motel operators who accommodated their bikes and generous Warmshowers hosts—the roads themselves were a different story.

“Montana’s roads are not well-suited for cyclists,” they noted. “The shoulders are too narrow to feel safe. During our 8,000-kilometer trip, we think we encountered the worst drivers in Montana.” They described frightening moments with large, fast-moving vehicles that passed without giving an inch of space. It was a stark reminder of the vulnerability of bicycle travel, even for seasoned tourers.

A Festive Finish in Canada

Crossing the border into Canada brought an immediate sense of relief. The shoulders widened, the traffic calmed, and the couple found themselves back on dedicated bike paths winding through Kootenay and Banff national parks.

Canada felt a bit more like home. “It reminds us a bit more of Europe: vast green spaces bustling with pedestrians and cyclists, fewer noisy cars, crosswalks, and sidewalks,” they observed, comparing the vibe to the cycling-friendly atmospheres of Denver and Boulder.

Of course, the Canadian wilderness wasn’t entirely peaceful. The slightly more humid weather introduced a new, highly motivated adversary: swarms of mosquitoes that managed to attack them even while they were pedaling.

Despite the bugs, the final miles were a joy. The couple rolled into Calgary—their ultimate destination—on July 1. “We arrived in Calgary for Canada Day,” they wrote. “It was a very festive way to arrive at our final destination!”

The End is Only the Beginning

In Calgary, the reality of the finish line set in. They spent two days hunting down large cardboard boxes to pack their trusty bikes for the flight home. But even at the very end, the spirit of the journey persisted. They spent their final two nights with a Warmshowers host named Carol, savoring the last few moments of connection that had defined their trip.

On July 4, Béa and Damien returned to France. They had crossed a continent at ten miles an hour, enduring snowstorms, headwinds, narrow shoulders, and aggressive mosquitoes. But they also experienced the profound kindness of strangers, the majesty of the American West, and the simple joy of waking up every day with nowhere to be but further down the road.

“It was our first long trip of five months. It was an enriching experience,” they reflected. “Each place allowed us to learn different things and gain a better understanding of different ways of life and cultures.”

When we first met in Colorado, they told me their goal was to keep the trip “quite easy and fun”—to finish each day with enough energy to talk to people. They succeeded beautifully.

So, are they finally ready to settle down? Not a chance.

“The end of our trip has already made us want to hit the road again by bike,” they told us. “We have so many destination ideas! Now we just have to choose, and maybe even go for a year this time?”

From all of us at AvidCyclist, congratulations to Béa and Damien on a magnificent ride. We can’t wait to see where that little “France” license plate shows up next.

Five Months, 5,000 Miles, and Zero Bears: A Retrospective of Béa and Damien’s Epic Ride

When French cyclists Béa and Damien Bertaux set out from Cancún, Mexico, bound for Calgary, Canada, they packed an impressive amount of gear onto their touring bicycles. Yet their most essential piece of equipment was never strapped to a rack—it was their unshakable optimism.

Over five months and approximately 8,000 kilometers (nearly 5,000 miles), they proved that the best way to experience the world is at ten miles per hour. Their journey was a masterclass in slow travel, reminding us that a bicycle is the perfect vehicle for turning strangers into friends. Here is a light-hearted look back at the highlights, the hurdles, and the undeniable charm of their North American adventure.

The Tale of the Tape

The numbers alone tell an impressive story of resilience and adaptability.

Category	The Details
Total Distance	~8,000 kilometers (nearly 5,000 miles)
The Route	Cancún, Mexico, to Calgary, Canada
The Detour	Originally planned for 2020 from Calgary to Mexico, delayed by a pandemic and a broken bone, and finally ridden in reverse.
Bear Encounters	Zero (a fact they celebrated daily).
Bison Encounters	Several, including a few that were just a little too close for comfort in Yellowstone.

The Highs of the Highway

If there was one defining theme of their trip, it was the incredible kindness of strangers. From accepting spontaneous sandwiches while sheltering in a Wyoming downpour to finding a warm bed during a Rawlins snowstorm, Béa and Damien discovered that the people of North America were always ready to help. Their commitment to keeping the ride “quite easy and fun” paid off brilliantly; by ensuring they weren’t entirely exhausted at the end of the day, they turned every rest stop into an opportunity for cultural exchange.

The landscapes matched the hospitality. A major highlight was Glacier National Park, where they enjoyed the rare luxury of a spectacular, traffic-free road. And their timing could not have been better. Rolling into Calgary on July 1 meant they arrived right on Canada Day, making it feel as though the entire city was throwing a party to celebrate their finish line.

The Lows (That They Laughed Off Anyway)

No 5,000-mile ride is without its challenges, but the couple handled adversity with characteristic grace. The Wyoming wind was cold and relentless, yet they simply used the slow pace to admire the vast scenery.

Montana presented a different kind of challenge: beautiful forests paired with terrible drivers. They survived the narrow shoulders and fast-moving trucks, earning their stripes as true road warriors. Once safely across the border into Canada, the traffic calmed, but nature deployed a new adversary. They found themselves battling highly motivated Canadian mosquitoes—swarms so determined they managed to attack the couple even while they were pedaling.

What’s Next?

If you thought crossing a continent would cure their wanderlust, think again. Back home in France, the bicycles are barely unpacked, and Béa and Damien are already plotting their next escape.

“We have so many destination ideas,” they wrote to us. “Now we just have to choose, and maybe even go for a year this time?”

Béa and Damien, thank you for taking the Avid Cyclist community along for the ride. You reminded us all that with a good attitude, a sturdy bicycle, and a willingness to talk to strangers, the world remains a wonderfully welcoming place. Chapeau!